FASHION HAIR

New to fashion color? This is a required read for your journey!

 

In my opinion, the number one perk of playing with fashion hair color is that you can be transformed into a magical rainbow unicorn, and honestly what is better than that? Healthy unicorn hair, for one thing. If it’s well maintained and cared for, fashion color is a unique way to express your flare for creativity. If you’re thinking about a big transformation, here are some questions to ask yourself before you make a decision:

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What is my budget? First and foremost, let’s address time and cost. After undervaluing my experience and time for years, I try to be straightforward about it now. If you want your whole head to be an explosion of melting vibrant colors, then you'll need to set aside several hours and likely several hundred dollars (or more). Fashion colors can be simple or complex, and often require several steps to achieve the end result. Most stylists charge hourly for these services, and the process can take anywhere from 4-8 hours (or a few long appointments, in some cases- especially when working with previously colored or fragile hair). This will result in a higher price point for these services. I am often dedicating an entire work day for big color projects to make sure the process isn't rushed. Keep in mind that there is a lot of physical effort that your stylist will be putting into your service, too!

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Don’t want to invest in the whole head of hair? Work environment too conservative for Lisa Frank styles? Try some peekaboo panels or accent pieces! There is a lot you can do and keep it hidden but still have fun, and if it’s worth it to you, you can commission a masterpiece on your head, or some custom clip-in extensions that you can pop in for special occasions! Don’t be afraid to talk to your stylist about what you can afford - let them customize a fun look that fits your budget or time constraints.

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What is the process? Hair needs to be lightened to pale yellow and possibly toned after. This is a very important step of the process and time and cost depend on how easily the hair lifts to that light blonde. If you want silver hair and you are a level 3 brunette naturally, be prepared for a few blonding sessions first. If you want silver hair and you are NOT a natural level 3 brunette (i.e. it’s created in-salon, or - gulp – from a box), get ready for the long haul. This is because lightening hair is tough on your tendrils and starts to affect the structure if over-processed. Giving hair a break in between processes can help your hair recover. Treatments in between can also help restore necessary nutrients and fill in damage. If you have ANY residual color on your hair from a previous service, even if you can't see it, that can add significant time to the lightening process, offer unexpected results that require extra steps, and create a much more intense process for your stylist to correct. Strand tests are always a good idea ahead of time!

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If you’ve been layering black box color on your hair for years (or even salon color- because color CAN'T lift color, it needs to be lightened - basically removed- with bleach), maybe think about something a little less ambitious than lighter pastels for the first go around, or be prepared to spend some time with yellow hair in between and pay a higher price to reach your goals... it can (almost) always be done, but it's extremely difficult to gauge the time and cost. There are a lot of creative options to pull from though, if you're open to them!

 

And the upkeep? It depends. Fashion color lines are constantly updating and inventing new ways to keep color vibrant longer. Since most fashion color is deposit only (it doesn’t use an activator to process the color), it sits more on top of the cuticle, staining it. It’s often filled with yummy stuff to help condition as it colors too, hopefully helping its staying power. Pre-lightened (bleached) hair is already more porous so it will grab on to that color better, and the lighter the hair, the brighter the colors (there is a fine line though- too light can be too porous and cause faster fading). Pastels will always fade faster. They are more translucent than more rich, vibrant colors. But help exists! In-salon treatments, and repair boosters help strengthen during the process, which means less fading and healthier, more manageable. Toning shampoos will help extend the life of pastels and vibrant colors from home. I offer customized conditioners for both in-salon and at home!

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It's also important to keep those roots touched up. For longer lengths, going more than 8 weeks between touch ups can require more time at the salon making sure it lifts evenly. More than an inch or two of growth often adds an extra step in the lightening process, depending on your natural color. 

 

If you’re willing to cut shampoos down to 1-2 times a week, wash in cold water, and get some good products, you can really help extend the life of your color. Lots of toning and color-depositing shampoos and conditioners are helping direct deposit color last longer. Without any home maintenance in between appointments, many fashion colors will be severely faded within 4-6 weeks. That being said, most of my fashion color clients have really upped their home care routine, and they can keep their color looking vibrant for 6 months or more (often without adding toning products at home). Always check with your stylist about the best color-deposit products before buying (some of them can be a beast to lift out later), or better yet, ask them to customize an at home treatment for you!

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Home Hack: Got buildup from waiting for those washes? Try an apple cider vinegar for a clarifying rinse that will balance hair PH levels. Try 1 part cider to 1 part water. It’s soothing and gentle. Add a few drops of lavender oil to cut the vinegar scent and sooth your scalp, and you can even put it in a spray bottle to spritz on before you shower!

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Okay, so what about those products? No parabens and no sulfates!  Parabens can cause icky buildup on both your hair and your scalp (this is no fun no matter your hair color or routine). Sulfates rough up the cuticle and cause unnecessary fading and dryness. Quality, color-care products can make a huge difference with the right routine. I’m not here to criticize or recommend specific brands, but I don't endorse most drug store/big box store products. More often than not they are filled with, well, fillers…stuff you don’t need. Even less expensive big brands that have sulfate and paraben-free lines can have higher water and alcohol contents, thinning out the good stuff, messing with your PH, and causing you to go through it faster without letting the small amounts of the beneficial ingredients really do their job. Quality, color-safe brands will last longer, making them more cost efficient than you might expect.

 

After a lightening process, you are going to want moisture and strength (think fruit extracts, amino acids and plant stem cells). Salon brands will have higher quality ingredients that get into your hair and help your scalp, rather than just sitting on top and faking shine and silky softness (eye roll). Invest in in-salon or at-home conditioning masques. Also, get yourself an awesome dry shampoo and a heat protectant if applicable to help extend the life of your style, and possibly a UV protectant as well, if you're outside in the sun a lot. When you're making a big investment for the color process, you should definitely be including the cost for proper products in that budget.

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There are a lot of things to consider when investing in a big color transformation, and I would love to talk with you about your goals and concerns, and work with you to create something fresh and fun for your 'do! There are endless possibilities, so don't be afraid to dip your toes (and your tendrils) in!
 

What NOT to do:

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- hot water is a big NO - it causes faster fading!

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- do not use products with sulfates or parabens - invest in quality care for your fun hair!

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- do not swim without protecting your hair (no pools, no oceans - chemicals and salt both remove color or cause discoloration FAST) - consider getting a swim cap or keeping it up out of the water-once your hair starts soaking, the color will start falling out. Trust me, I have stories.​

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- Do not use excessive heat (keep that hot tool turned down as low as possible)

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Checklist: 

• cold water

• color-safe sulfate free shampoo

• paraben free conditioner

• leave-in conditioner (for moisture and strength)

• dry shampoo (to extend time between washes),

• heat/UV protectant (all types of heat cause fading!)

• restorative oil or serum (great to apply before bed and can double as heat protection!)

• repair masque (for occasional intensive care - at home or in-salon)

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I realize that this is a lot of potentially intimidating info, but it can often take clients by surprise or cause disappointment when they arrive for a consultation or appointment, so I feel it's much better to set expectations and plan what works best for you in advance.

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Once you’ve got a clean, light palette to start with, your options are limitless, so go crazy (and keep up with your root touch-ups)!

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Here's what I hope you'll take away from this as you start thinking about what fabulous things you want to do with your hair next:

• Know your budget and ability to maintain your color process. Talk with your stylist first about expectations and maintenance to create something that works for your lifestyle.​

• Be HONEST about your previous color services. Not being upfront might make it difficult for your stylist to achieve your goals within your budget.​

• Invest in the products your stylist recommends. Follow a strict regimen at home- cold water, less shampooing, low heat (and always with a heat protectant), protect your ends with oil and masques!​

• Prebook your maintenance appointments so that you can stay on schedule and keep those roots light for less time and money

• Most importantly: Communicate with your stylist about your goals, lifestyle, and expectations so that your hair works for you! ​

 

PRICING: $125 per hour

For more info, email carolbrownstyle@gmail.com

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Consultation and deposit/cc hold required. Deposit will be applied to services unless cancelled without rescheduling. 72 hr cancellation/reschedule notice required for fashion color services. Reschedules after 72 hrs will result in $100 fee. No-shows will result in forfeit of deposit plus additional fee of $250. 

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